Prevention - Growing Interest In Organic Foods And Farmers' Markets

Concern with healthier eating and nutrition can be credited for increased interest in organic foods and farmers' markets. The number of farmers' markets more than doubled between 1994-2002 according to the USDA. In an age when the produce sections of our supermarkets are bursting with tasteless goods from around the globe, produce from farmers' markets is perceived as fresher and healthier. Since the government wants to see everyone better nourished, the 2002 Farm Bill appropriated $40 million (double the 2001 amount) for Farmers Market Nutrition Programs to help low-income mothers and seniors.

The chart shows the increase between 1992 and 1997 in the number of certified growers of organic foods and the rise in the number of acres certified organic. Farmers in 49 states dedicated 1.3 million acres of farmland (about 0.2% of all U.S. cropland) to organic production in 1997, an increase of 39% over 1992. Farmers used two-thirds of such land for crops, the rest for raising certified organic livestock.

Why buy organic? People have been concerned about pesticides in food since Rachel Carson's Silent Spring (1962) sounded an early alert about the unknown effects of widespread pesticide use. Today, organic agriculture is one of the fastest-growing segments of the food sector. With consumer demand rising at the annual rate of 20% since the 1980s, by 2000 organic farming accounted for $7.7 billion of Americans' annual $400 billion+ food expenditures. Sales were expected to top $9 billion in 2002. Among the favorite organic crops are lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, grapes, apples, and St. John's Wort.

The USDA defines certified organic crops as those that "have been grown and processed according to the specific standards of various State and private certification organizations." The 1990s saw considerable legislative and regulatory activity because of the lack of consistent national standards for pesticide regulation and organic production.

Joel Bourne tells us in Audubon: "The USDA created a firestorm within the organic community in December 1997 with its first draft proposal [of national standards for organic labeling], which left open the possibility of using irradiation, sewage sludge, and genetic engineering to produce 'organic' foods. These processes and materials, rarely if ever used by organic growers, have strong supporters in the food industry. Irradiation involves bombarding food with gamma rays, which kills most bacteria, but because of public concerns over safety and radioactive waste, it hasn't become widespread."

Studies show that while organic produce is more attractive than it used to be and contains less pesticide residue, there is little evidence that it is more nutritious than conventionally grown produce, and there is no discernable taste difference. Proponents contend that buying organic produce supports farming practices that are better for the environment. A large-scale conversion to organic farming is not foreseen.

Michael Pollan contends that "the rapid growth of organic closely tracks consumers' rising worries about the conventional food supply — about chemicals, about additives and, most recently, about genetically modified ingredients and mad cow disease; every food scare is followed by a spike in organic sales."¹⁶ Pollan confesses: "I like buying organic, for the usual salad of rational and sentimental reasons."

Organic products tend to be more expensive. Are we paying more for an inferior product? U.S. News & World Report suggests the higher price may buy peace of mind and recommends targeting organic spending on fruits and vegetables that harbor the most chemicals. Check out watchdog lists like those published by Consumers Union (www.consumersunion.org/food/food.htm) and the Environmental Working Group (www.foodnews.org). The American Council on Science and Health says the health benefits of fruits and vegetables "dramatically overwhelm the theoretical risks of tiny amounts of pesticides in food." That advice and your taste buds might be the best guides.

Sources: U.S. Bureau of the Census. Statistical Abstract of the United States 2001. 121^st ed. "Greener Greens? The Truth About Organic Foods." Consumer Reports (January 1998). "Organic Farming and Marketing: Questions and Answers." Online. Available: http://www.ers.usda.gov/briefing/Organic/Questions/orgqa1.htm. June 10, 2002. Bourne, Joel. "The Organic Revolution." Audubon (March/April 1999). Pollan, Michael. "Naturally: How Organic Became a Marketing Niche and a Multibillion …" New York Times Magazine. 13 May 2001. Marcus, Mary Brophy. "Organic Foods Offer Peace of Mind — At a Price." U.S. News & World Report. 15 January 2001. Winter, Ph.D., Carl K. "Eat Apples—Give Up Junk Food and Junk Science." American Council on Science and Health. Online. Available: http://www.acsh.org/press/editorials/eatapples030399.html. July 10, 2002.